Sepoy Harbhajan Singh

Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the 23rd Battalion of the Punjab Regiment resides in a small cluster of buildings set in a breathtakingly beautiful valley, a short way from Sikkim’s famed Nathula pass. The dutiful soldier takes two months off a year to visit his parents in Kuke village in Punjab’s Kapurthala district. Sounds like a regular army soldier, except the fact that he died in 1968 after drowning in a fast flowing stream while escorting a mule column in Sikkim. His body was found after a three-day search and cremated.

Baba Harbhajan Singh warns the dangerous activities on the border through the dreams of fellow army men. Even Chinese army men believe to have seen a human figure doing patrolling in the night across the border. Baba Harbhajan Singh has been honoured with the rank of Honorary Captain and his samadhi reconstructed at the junction of Kupup Gnathang road and the pathway leading to Menmoichu Lake as apart of the watershed memorial complex. Over the years the shrine of Baba Harbhajan has gained huge following across all frontiers. Baba is respected and worshiped by every army soldier in Sikkim. They believe Baba would forecast accident in the valley much ahead of the happening.

Baba Mandir has three room structures. The central room has a large portrait of the Baba along with other Hindu deity and Sikh Gurus. To the right of the central room is the personal room of Baba. The room has every household belongings required for daily activities, from clothes, shoes, slippers and a neat sleeping bed, it is all well maintained. The uniforms are neatly ironed and shoes polished ready for use. Opposite to this room is a small room that has an office cum store room. The room is filled with water bottles, unused slippers, tooth brushes and other items offered to Baba. The followers believe that the water kept in the Mandir after a week would turn into holy water and cure every ailment. People believe that the slippers kept here would help patients with gout and other foot problems and so on. That devotee who cannot visit the shrine sends letters to Baba that is opened by the associate of Baba. These letters usually have the request for the Baba to help solve personal problems and the gratitude for being helped.

Every October 4 a special ceremony is organized by the Indian army out here to honour the role of Baba Harbhajan Singh as well as the martyrs of Indian army who laid down their lives for safeguarding the country. Every Sunday and Tuesday throughout the year puja is offered at Baba Mandir where free meals are distributed among the devotees.

Despite the blessing of the Baba the armies at Nathula border are in high alert when Baba goes on an annual leave from September 15 to November 15 every year. Even leaves for other army men during the months are cancelled and extra cautions are sought after. This true legend of Baba Harbhajan is only next to the significance of Lord Kanchenjunga for the people of Sikkim.

• Every year on 11 September, a jeep departs with his personal belongings to the nearest railway station, New Jalpaiguri, from where it is then sent by train to the village of Kuke, in the Kapurthala district of the Indian state of Punjab. While empty berths on any train of the Indian Railways are invariably allocated to any waitlisted passenger or on a first-come-first-served basis by the coach attendants, a special reservation for the Baba is made. Every year a seat is left empty for the journey to his hometown and soldiers chaperone the Baba to his home.

• Devabhoomiyiloode, the 2012 Malayalam travelogue written by M. K. Ramachandran, features his journey to the Baba shrine in 2010.

• There is a temple of Baba Harbhajan Singh near Nathu-La pass.